Historical Sewing|Chemise and Drawers

As I explained in my first historical sewing post, this skill is something I have wanted to learn for very long time. I had done a preview of the mid-1800’s styled chemise and drawers a couple weeks ago and wanted to wait to give the project revue until I had worn the clothing a couple times and tested the strength of the stitching.

Now that that is done, I can give a truthful analysis of the pattern, the technique, and the practicality of this project.

To begin my historical sewing endeavors, it seemed logical to start from the inside and work out. So the first piece I made was a chemise, or lightweight under dress similar to and often used as a night gown.

I used the Simplicity Pattern 9769 as a basis for both the chemise and drawers. A couple modifications were made to the design due to personal preference. I used a lightweight, soft, off-white muslin. The entirety of the project is hand-stitched.

Full front view

Front drawstring adjustable neckline with overlap

gathered banded, gusseted sleeves

Back view

The drawers I made are split, as is consistent with the time era. They are trimmed, at the bottom of the legs, with cream lace that I found at a thrift store. It was a bit of a challenge attaching the lace because it was about a centimeter short and getting the hem even was rather tricky. But overall, the fit was rather comfortable, and the chemise tucks in rather nicely to preserve modesty.

Full side view

Front view, gathered waist

Lace trimming

Un-tied drawstring back closure

Inside back view of front waistband detailing

I was very nervous to start an entirely hand sewn article. However, it was a relatively simple pattern that didn’t take as much time as I thought it would. I probably spent about 10 hours max on both pieces. I used double thread for most of the seam work and it seems to be quite durable, I’ve slept in the chemise and there has been no fraying, ripping, or feeling it would fall apart. I am quite pleased with how this turned out.

If you are interested in completing this project for yourself, or would like to commission a set, let me know and I can share more details regarding these garments:)

“To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under heaven…a time to rend, and a time to sew; a time to keep silence, and a time to speak…”

Ecclesiastes Chapter 3

Historical Sewing

For many years now, I have had dreams of being a talented seamstress. I have been sewing almost my entire life, but it has only been in the last couple of years that I have really gotten excited about improving and making beautiful articles. The more I have been getting excited about sewing, the more I’ve yearned to learn about Civil War Era costuming.

As of this week, I can finally say that I am a beginning costumer. After almost two years of procrastinating, for fear for messing up, I took the plunge. I can’t wait to share the details of my first project once it is completely finished. Until then, this teaser will have to suffice.

God bless you in your endeavors today!